Black tie for men: what to wear
A black or midnight-blue tuxedo + white dress shirt + black bow tie + patent shoes.
Evening galas, charity dinners, formal weddings after 6 pm, award ceremonies, some premieres.
- When
- Evening (after 6 pm)
- Tie
- Yes
- Jeans
- No
- Sneakers
- No
Three outfit ideas
The classic
A black shawl-lapel tuxedo, a white covered-placket shirt, a black silk bow tie and patent oxfords.
Midnight blue
A midnight-blue peak-lapel tuxedo (looks blacker than black under artificial light), a black bow tie and a cummerbund.
Summer evening
A white dinner jacket, black tuxedo trousers, a black bow tie and patent shoes.
What to wear
- A dinner jacket with silk lapels (peak or shawl)
- Trousers with a single silk stripe
- A white dress shirt with a covered placket or studs
- A black silk self-tie bow tie
- A cummerbund or low waistcoat (optional)
Shoes
Black patent oxfords or highly polished black calf.
Accessories
Cufflinks, a white pocket square, a slim watch.
What to avoid
- A regular suit and tie
- Black shirts or a coloured bow tie
Colours
Men: black or midnight blue. Women: rich, deep evening colours; black is always right.
In summer
In summer and hot climates men may wear a white or ivory dinner jacket; women choose chiffon, crepe and light silk.
In winter
In winter: velvet, brocade, heavy satin; for men, a black or navy wool overcoat over the tuxedo.
Details that make the difference
- Jacket sleeves should show 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff.
- Trousers without turn-ups and with a minimal break; for formal codes held up by braces, not a belt.
- Socks: black, fine and over the calf – no skin should show when you sit.
- Never fasten the bottom button of a jacket; a one-button dinner jacket is fastened when standing.
About black tie
Formal evening wear: a tuxedo with a black bow tie for men, a floor-length evening gown for women. The dinner jacket was born in the 1860s as a relaxed smoking jacket for the evening. In 1886 Americans brought it to the Tuxedo Park club in New York – hence 'tuxedo'. In a century, the casual jacket became the standard of formal evening dress.
Morning dress for men
A black or grey morning coat + striped grey trousers + waistcoat + tie.
Black tie optional for men
A tuxedo OR a dark (black, navy, charcoal) suit + tie.
Other codes for men
Frequently asked
01Black tie: is a tie required?
Yes – a tie or bow tie is required here.
02Black tie: are jeans OK?
No – jeans are too casual for this code; choose tailored trousers.
03Black tie: are sneakers OK?
No – choose leather shoes.
04Does black tie mean a floor-length gown for women?
Classically yes, but most events today accept an elegant below-the-knee cocktail dress or an evening trouser suit. The later and grander the event, the more a full-length gown fits.
05Can I wear a dark suit instead of a tuxedo?
For 'black tie', better not. If the invitation says 'black tie optional', a dark suit and tie is fine.